(This is the first of a series of "trip reports" that I had originally posted on TripAdvisor.com. I have edited it for this blog. The major change I have made is in the names of the main characters: Fred and Ethel were originally the Drysdales in this three part series. Mr. Drysdale seemed to fit Fred perfectly, but, since I later did other reports on other forums, and then began blogging, I have decided to keep things consistent, by using the names 'Fred' and 'Ethel' in all my blogs.)